Thursday, January 8, 2015

Day 200: Saturday 4 October – A Quiet Day In Titisee, by Ken

The toothache / ear infection that bothered me yesterday was no better. I started taking one of the courses of antibiotics Chan had provided before we left New Zealand.

It was just 2° when we woke, the camping ground was shrouded in fog and everything felt very damp. Rather like a winter’s day in England!

We drove Smarty into the town of Titisee and set off to explore. The weather hadn’t improved and two layers of clothes felt one layer short, although some hardy locals were walking about in shirtsleeves. The main street took us down to the northern end of Lake Titisee. Eventually, that is, as Jane was suffering shopping withdrawal symptoms and wanted to visit nearly all the shops lining the street. The shops mainly catered for tourists whom the shopkeepers apparently saw as having an insatiable demand for cuckoo clocks – or possibly not if the hundreds of ornately decorated timepieces hanging from every part of every shop was anything to go by. Jane was able to buy a few Christmas presents, mainly for the girls.
Happy Shopper
Cuckoo Clocks Everywhere
Can Buy Bread By The Kilo
What's The Collective Noun For Pugs - An Ugly of .....
One Of The Ugly
It was nearly midday by the time we had walked the length of the main street by which time the sun had finally burnt its way through the mist.
Ziggy Lookalike In Titisee
Tourist Transport
We drove back to the camping ground in Smarty for lunch of bread, chese and dips.

By 13:30 the sun had brought a lot of warmth to the day and it was a glorious afternoon. We set off to walk anti-clockwise around tLake Titisee. The track was very pleasant through woodland on the lake’s margin and very busy with walkers. The lake also had its fair share of traffic ranging from kayaks to pleasure boats taking a slow turn around the lake. There were even one or two hardy souls swimming.
Pleasure Boat
Church Seen Across Lake
At the halfway point in Titisee town we stopped ad sat in the sun for a while and watched the world go by. The town was very busy with lots of tourists. Leaving the town we were entertained by a young Pug ‘attacking’ wavelets in the lake. The latter part of the walk was not as scenic with the route being mainly along a road and the lake was out of sight.
Pug Attacking Ripples
 Back at the camping ground we sat outside the restaurant in the sun. Jane had the mandatory slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Gateau, or cake) with water while I settled for a couple of beers. Back at Mabel our German friend dropped by with two cans of beer for me as compensation for us not being able to fit in a trip to the Munich Bierfest, a very kind thought.
Jane's Gateau
My Beer

Dinner was the remainder of last night’s risotto.

My toothache/ear infection was pretty painful at times during the course of the day and quite debilitating.


































Day 199: Friday 3 October – Dornier Museum and Friedrichshafen To The Black Forest, by Ken

I slept particularly badly, toothache, or possibly an ear infection, was very painful. In the end I got up and took some pain killers.

It was yet another grey and overcast day first thing. We were on the road before 9:00 after checking out and finding the camping ground manager had spent a year living in Nelson and Brightwater. We drove the short distance to Friedrichshafen airport and parked Mabel and Smarty in the motorhome parking area at the Dornier museum. A taxi was already parked there, the driver was returning from some nearby bushes. He looked at Mabel, then turned to us saying “merhaba” with a big smile on his face. He had spotted the two Turkish flags we were still displaying on Mabel’s dashboard. He was quite perplexed when we returned the merhaba but then spoke in English. We explained how we had come by the flags, it turned out the taxi driver was Kurdish and originally from not far from the Syrian border.

As if we needed it, the Dornier museum was confirmation the Germans do a good museum. The museum told the story of Claude Dornier, the aircraft produced by the company and the move from aircraft production to research and development across a broad spectrum, and was excellent.
Dornier Museum With Dornier Do 31 Outside

Our visit started in a movie theatre with eight projectors, two on the front wall and three each on the adjacent side walls.  The presentation was extremely well done summarising the Dornier story from Claude Dornier’s early days working for Zeppelin developing very large flying boats, through the development of VTOL and commuter aircraft and the move to research and development. Dornier do not now produce aircraft, they are now specialists in systems analysis, electronics and much more in high tech fields.
Movie Theatre
The museum had very good displays of model Dornier aircraft as well as lots of aviation artefacts. A large section was devoted to the second world war with workers accounts translated into English of life in the aircraft factories. While Dornier welcomed the economic benefits to his company of the development of the Luftwaffe, he was not a Nazi supporter. He avoided joining the Nazi party until 1940 when he did so in fear he would lose his job if he didn’t, but he never wore any party insignia. Hitler and Göering regarded Dornier with suspicion and never visited his factories.
One of Many Display Cases
Flying Boat Wooden Propellor  
 The development of VTOL aircraft featured strongly in the 1960s stimulated by military needs to be as independent of fixed infrastructure as possible. The Dornier Do31 was the only jet transport aircraft in the world with a VTOL capability. Two prototypes set several world records before the test programme was concluded in 1969.  


Jane is not the most enthusiastic of visitors to aircraft museums and returned to Mabel leaving me to it after we had toured most of the museum’s upper floor. Consequently, I didn’t want to hang around too long seeing the remainder of the museum.

The main exhibition hall on the ground floor was largely taken up by aircraft exhibits, not all of which were Dornier, e.g. a Bell ‘Huey’. There was also a very good display dealing with the giant Do X flying boat powered by 12 engines (6 tractor and 6 pusher) that first flew in 1929. It created a world record by carrying 169 passengers and crew although it only achieved an altitude of 200 metres and the passengers had to move from one side to another to assist the aircraft to turn. It would be true to say the aircraft never delivered its potential. Having had a wing consumed by fire while in Lisbon en route to a promotional tour of the United States. Other mishaps ensued and it was 10 months before it reached New York. There it spent 9 months while the engines were overhauled. The Great Depression put paid to hopes of selling the aircraft in America and it returned to Germany where it was taken over from Dornier by Lufthansa. They fared little better tearing off the aircraft’s tail section while landing on a reservoir en route to Istanbul. Thereafter, it became a museum exhibit until it was destroyed in a bombing raid in World War II.
Indoor Display
Outside the museum was a static display of aircraft including a Do31 that I was able to have a good look at. It was very ingenious with vertical lift engines on the wing tips with two underwing engines having swivel novels similar to a Harrier. Other aircraft on display included a Breguet Atlantic that I clambered around inside. However, it was unclear if it had any connection with Dornier, I think not.
Breguet Atlantic
Atlantic Bomb Bay
Atlantic Cockpit
Atlantic Interior
Dornier Do 31 Swivel Nozzles
 These two parked outside were Dorniers:

Late morning we set a course for Titisee in the Black Forest, we decided I should drive the first leg as that took us back through Friedrrichshafen. We hadn’t gone very far before I had to pull over and ask Jane to drive. My tooth was hurting so much I was finding it very difficult to concentrate. I took a couple of Anadin that soon had the pain under control.

After stopping to fill with LPG (filling stations are not that common in Germany) we pulled over for lunch of bread, dips and cheese. Afterwards I felt well enough to drive again and got us to Camping Bankenhof at the southern end of the lake.

The camping ground was very busy (as had been the roads) and we found out later it was a public holiday (Day of German Unity). However, we had wi-fi inside Mabel at long last, the facilities were great and our fellow residents were very friendly. In particular, we had a long chat with a German guy living in Basel. He had spotted the Turkish flags sprouting from Mabel’s dashboard and had previously worked in Istanbul for a drugs company. He had found that quite a challenging experience, particularly getting the Turks to understand the importance of cleanliness in the manufacture of drugs. He also agreed with Derv and sees Turkey’s President Erdogan taking the country down a muslim sectarian line mentioning that alcohol is now very difficult to find in Asian Istanbul.


For dinner I cooked a mushroom and truffle risotto.

Today's Trip (144 km)

Day 198: Thursday 2 October – Germany: Friedrichshafen, by Ken

It was grey, dreary and overcast first thing at Starnberger See, but it was reasonably warm and it wasn’t raining.

At 7:00 I took Smarty and parked outside the camping ground owner’s house and logged onto wi-fi. It was painfully slow but I managed to transfer money to Ella as our share of Harry’s birthday present and download my email. There was one from Clemente at Dwarka resort apologizing for the delay in replying, but no mention of the incorrect banking details he had given me, just “let’s not try the bank transfer” and “sorry for your loss” – a reference to less money being returned from Goa than was sent from New Zealand. He suggested Paypall but wanted 5% to cover their charges. I replied I was already out of pocket because of the failed telegraphic transfer and wasn’t prepared to pay the 5%. While I was sitting in Smarty the friendly woman camping ground owner came out to see how I was and we had a brief conversation in German. She really was a lovely person.

While Mabel has an electronic display of engine oil level it is sensitive to how level Mabel is parked. I had been doing a visual check every now and again. It was time to do another today and found she needed half a litre. That’s a whole litre she had used in 13,000km. We prepared Mabel and Smarty for the road and after showering I went over to pay for our stay. I received a warm goodbye and best wishes for a safe journey.

Initially, our trip took us cross-country, it became murkier as we travelled and distinctly misty as we climbed. At 740 metres above sea level we were virtually in cloud. We passed through lots of small towns and villages, they all looked very neat and tidy.
Murky Day
While our destination of Friedrichshafen was slightly south of due west from Starnberger See satnav took us north west to Landsberg where we joined an autobahn and then turned south west almost all the way to the Bodensee. The weather slowly improved during the course of the morning such that the sun was shining by the time we left the autobahn and travelled north west parallel to Bodensee.

Passing through Friedrichshafen we saw a small airship overhead. We knew from our guidebook that it was possible to take a trip in an airship that could carry up to 12 passengers. Jane suggested I should do that as a late birthday present. At €200 for a 30 minute flight, I thought that rather extravagant and suggested visits to the Zeppelin and Dornier museums in the town would be more than adequate. 
Airship Over Friedrichshafen
There was a momentary glitch in our navigation as satnav had us turn into a narrow residential road announcing we had reached our destination in Fischbach a few kilometres north west of Friedrichshafen. Fortunately, we got ourselves back to a main road without having to unhitch Smarty and found Campingplatz Fischbach a few hundred metres down the road.

We found ourselves a good pitch facing the very large Bodensee. We knew Switzerland was over the horizon, but we couldn’t see it.

After lunch of bread, dips and cheese we drove Smarty into Friedrichshafen. After very nearly finding ourselves in the queue for the ferry to Switzerland we found a car park from where we walked a short distance to the Zeppelin Museum.
Zeppelin Museum, Friedrichshafen
Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin was 52 when he left the army in 1890. Instead of moving on to a peaceful retirement he became interested in building a large airship for transporting heavy loads over long distances. With financial support from King William II who also provided land for Zeppelin’s project, and a significant investment of his own and wife’s money Zeppelin built his first airship being in a floating hangar on Bodensee. It was launched in 1900 but then scrapped due to a shortage of funds.

Zeppelin was subsequently able to raise the funds to build three more airships. Recognising the military as the best source of permanent funding Zeppelin embarked on a 24 hour trial flight to prove his fourth craft (LZ 4) was suitable for military use. Unfortunately, nearing the end of the trial LZ 4 was forced to land at Echterdingen in a storm and the airship was destroyed by fire. In what later became known as the ‘miracle of Echterdingen the German people rallied around and donated millions to enable Zeppelin to continue his work.

Zeppelin died in 1917 having diversified into constructing large bombers deployed over England in 1917 and giant seaplanes – built under the direction of Claude Dornier.

A reconstruction of part of the starboard side of the Hindenberg, named after Paul von Hindenberg, president of the German Reich was the main feature of the museum. .It represented just a small proportion of the passenger accommodation. Ascending a flight of steps took us into the passenger area of the craft with cabins not unlike those we had used on our overnight ferry crossings with separate toilet facilities. There were no showers or baths, but perhaps these were considered unnecessary for the relatively short flights. Above the cabins was the promenade deck with angled windows allowing passengers to see downwards. Adjacent to the promenade deck was the dining area, bar and reading room.

The reconstruction occupied half the width of the craft, the other half was occupied by displays illustrating life on board. Something I hadn’t appreciated was crew numbers equaled, or slightly outnumbered passengers. The Hindenberg could carry 50 passengers and required a crew of 50 to 60 working in three shifts. Photographs showing the crew at work illustrated how similar the airship was to a sea going vessel. It was steered by a large ‘ships wheel’ and the engine telegraph was identical to that of a ship. There were shots of riggers working on the outside of the envelope while the airship was in flight and crewmen scaling external ladders to reach the engine nacelles where they tended the engines.

Here's some shots taken inside the reconstruction:

Dining Room
Observation Deck
Reading Room
Cabin
Riggers At Work


















A lot of display space was devoted to the accident at Lakehurst on 6 May 1937 when a fire broke out near the upper tail fin bringing the airship to the ground in flames in half a minute. 36 people died – 13 passengers, 22 crew and a member of the ground team. 62 survived including 23 passengers. In less than a minute the Hindenberg had gone from symbolising the future of air travel to signaling the end of commercial airships.
Hindenberg Engine Nacelle
Officer's Jacket

There are conflicting views as to the cause of the accident with a spark igniting a mixture of leaking hydrogen and air – a thunderstorm had delayed the airships arrival. However, alternative theories including sabotage have been put forward.

Outside the reconstruction a floor contained lots of photographs as well as equipment fromairships. A walkway took us around the reconstruction such that we were inside the body of the Hindenberg where we could see its aluminium frame and water tanks. It was all very interesting and informative.
Hindenberg Reconstructed Frame and Water Tanks


Oddly, the top floor of the museum is an art gallery featuring regional art from Gothic to modern. A gallery contained a very strange exhibition with the envelope of a small airship lying deflated on the floor with computer generated videos of a swarm of airships floating over Venice, one of them wedged between houses on either side of a canal. We had no idea what that was about. It seemed they had built the museum to celebrate Friedrichshafen’s famous son and found they had a floor left over and had to fill it somehow.

From the museum we visited an enormous supermarket nearby housed on two floors. The fresh food on display was excellent, vegetables seemingly having been polished before being put on display. The cheese and sausage counter just went on for ever.
Just Part Of The Supermarket