Day 149: Thursday 14 August – Jane Complains Of The Cold, by Ken

Jane was still feeling the heat in spite of it being slightly cooler than of late – low 30s. We decided to take a trip out in Smarty to places where it would be cooler than on the coast at Alanya.

Our first stop was Dim Màğrasi, a drive of about 20km into the mountains north of Alanya. There, situated high above the Dimçay river, is an enormous limestone cavern, accessible from a 360m long walkway.

View From Cave Entrance

While still early in the morning it was hot. The cool of the cavern was a welcome relief, particularly for Jane. She immediately felt much more comfortable and I suggested that perhaps she should stay there for a few days and I could send in food. The cave was large, very impressive and practically deserted. LED lights helped to guide our way along the walkway although dark spots and steps of different heights meant we had to tread carefully. Thousands of fine stalactites hung from the roof of the cave. The shape of the stalagmites below them was a complete contrast being short and dumpy. I wondered weather that was because drips from the stalactites were infrequent? A large pool of water in which stalactites were reflected lay at the end of the walkway.  

Here's some shots from inside the cave:

As we started to make our way back we heard music wafting through the cave. A man was playing what sounded like a flute although it wasn't edge blown. Perhaps it's best described as a long thin recorder? Anyway, it sounded very appropriate and good and the cave helped to amplify the sound.

Cave Musician

Shortly after we met a wave of tourists coming towards us, it seemed we had timed our trip just right - the tour buses had arrived! As we left the cave Jane’s glasses and the camera steamed up in the hot and humid air. Almost immediately we both started sweating profusely. We sat for a while outside a stall selling gifts and then went in a bought two good luck charms featuring the Turkish eye, one for Smarty, the other for Mabel.

Smarty Sandwiched Between Two Taxis

We visited a restaurant nearby for a cup of çay each after which we felt ready for the next leg of our day out. It was Jane’s turn to drive and we set a course for the Sapadere canyon about 25km away. Shortly after leaving the car park at Dim Màğrasi we came across a half dozen Land Rovers belonging to an off-road safari company parked in the shade. Most of the drivers were sitting in one of them and one gave a huge wave as we passed. We stopped and I walked back to talk, they wanted to know all about Smarty – how she was powered, where she was made, etc. One driver showed me his sunnies that he proudly said were made in the USA. He wanted me to try them, they were Oakley’s like mine, but his were probably better.

Smarty's Admirers

Our route took us eastwards along the coast through large banana plantations. Lots of roadside stalls were selling the fruit. 

Banana Plantation

We swapped the good dual carriageway coast road for a much poorer two-lane road that climbed its way into the hills. We stopped briefly to take photographs of a bridge very much like those we had seen in Zagori in Greece. We continued driving until the road ended at a large open-air restaurant shaded by trees. Alongside the restaurant the river flowed through a cascade of artificial pools in which people were bathing.

Bridge

It was lunchtime and we decided to eat in the restaurant. Most of the tables were empty but waiters were busy setting up long tables each of which carried a large name card, it looked as though they were expecting tour groups. We were shown to a small table alongside a pool. 

Restaurant

Pool Adjacent To Our Table

We both ordered schnitzels, chicken or Jane and beef for me. As we were eating a convoy of ten open top Land Rovers arrived. Each carried ten passengers who soon filled one of the long tables. The staff were clearly well practiced in serving such large numbers. Like a well oiled machine salads and bread were produced followed by a selection of mains accompanied by beer or a soft drink. In next to no time everyone had food which they tucked into while jabbering away in what sounded like Russian.

Jane and I Ieft the diners to it and made our way up the canyon on a boardwalk. Every now and again steps provided access to the river where people were bathing. The gorge became narrower and we passed a number of small waterfalls. 

Boardwalk

At the end of the walkway was a large pool fed by a high waterfall. There was a viewing platform looking over the pool and steps led down to rocks from which access to the pool could be gained. Jane decided it was time for a cooling dip, I decided it was time to watch her taking a cooling dip. She made her way down to a large rock from which she lost her balance and fell with style into the water. Her gasp could be heard for miles as could her views on how cold the water was. She got straight back out again complaining for the first time in months that she was cold! It felt like Lyall Bay in the middle of winter, she said. It was a while before she plucked up the courage to get back into the water and swim to the waterfall. 

Jane Hurriedly Gets Out Complaining How Cold The Water Is

Jane On Her Way To The Waterfall

At The Waterfall

Others began to arrive entering the water with similar exclamations of the cold as Jane. Then all of a sudden the viewing platform was packed by the Russians we had seen eating. The platform felt unsafe with so many people on it and i decided to get off and wait on the boardwalk for Jane. She had a real struggle getting back up as the Russians started to pour down the steps to the pool.

Russians Make For The Pool As Jane (centre) Struggles To Get Up

We walked back past the restaurant and sat on the edge of a pool with our feet in the water, it really was cold. Jane had another dip and then we decided it was time to head for home. We had to pause a while and wait for feeling to return to my numb feet before it felt safe to walk around the edge of the pool and back to Smarty.

Jane In Lower Pool

We stopped a short distance along the road on the edge of the village of Sapadere where we wanted to visit a small silk factory. Signs directed us to the ‘House of Silk and Silkworm’ and ‘Tea House’. There we were greeted by a man wearing a multi-coloured hooped polo shirt and traditional baggy Turkish trousers held up by a pink belt. On his head he wore one of those caps to be found in tourists shops - white with gold braid on the peak and a badge denoting the rank of captain. He showed us onto the verandah of the house. It wasn't a silk factory. We ordered two glasses of çay. Jane showed an interest in trousers hanging on a rack and bought two pairs after a bit of haggling which resulted in our tea being thrown in for nothing. The man wiped his face with the notes Jane handed over with a big smile on his face. He tried, but failed, to sell me peanuts he had grown himself describing them as natural Viagra. While we were talking a woman we assumed was his wife appeared with a baby.

Our Host At The House Of Silk And Silkworm Counts Jane's Money

On the way back to Mabel we stopped at a Mygros supermarket to buy Turkish Delight as a thank you to Koray for his help in finding accommodation for us in Istanbul. Later, Koray dropped by to let us know that his friend had sorted out accommodation for us in the old part of Istanbul and the hotel staff would take care of parking for Mabel and Smarty. We were disappointed to find that Koray was a diabetic and couldn’t eat Turkish Delight. Initially he was going to give it to the camping ground staff, but had a sudden change of heart and kept it.

As usual when we have eaten out during the day we had snacks instead of an evening meal.