Monday, September 8, 2014

Day 149: Thursday 14 August – Jane Complains Of The Cold, by Ken

Jane was still feeling the heat in spite of it being slightly cooler than of late – low 30s. We decided to take a trip out in Smarty to places where it would be cooler than on the coast at Alanya.

Our first stop was Dim Màğrasi, a drive of about 20km into the mountains north of Alanya. There, situated high above the Dimçay river, is an enormous limestone cavern, accessible from a 360m long walkway.
View From Cave Entrance
While still early in the morning it was hot. The cool of the cavern was a welcome relief, particularly for Jane. She immediately felt much more comfortable and I suggested that perhaps she should stay there for a few days and I could send in food. The cave was large, very impressive and practically deserted. LED lights helped to guide our way along the walkway although dark spots and steps of different heights meant we had to tread carefully. Thousands of fine stalactites hung from the roof of the cave. The shape of the stalagmites below them was a complete contrast being short and dumpy. I wondered weather that was because drips from the stalactites were infrequent? A large pool of water in which stalactites were reflected lay at the end of the walkway.  

Here's some shots from inside the cave:











As we started to make our way back we heard music wafting through the cave. A man was playing what sounded like a flute although it wasn't edge blown. Perhaps it's best described as a long thin recorder? Anyway, it sounded very appropriate and good and the cave helped to amplify the sound.

Cave Musician

Shortly after we met a wave of tourists coming towards us, it seemed we had timed our trip just right - the tour buses had arrived! As we left the cave Jane’s glasses and the camera steamed up in the hot and humid air. Almost immediately we both started sweating profusely. We sat for a while outside a stall selling gifts and then went in a bought two good luck charms featuring the Turkish eye, one for Smarty, the other for Mabel.
Smarty Sandwiched Between Two Taxis
We visited a restaurant nearby for a cup of çay each after which we felt ready for the next leg of our day out. It was Jane’s turn to drive and we set a course for the Sapadere canyon about 25km away. Shortly after leaving the car park at Dim Màğrasi we came across a half dozen Land Rovers belonging to an off-road safari company parked in the shade. Most of the drivers were sitting in one of them and one gave a huge wave as we passed. We stopped and I walked back to talk, they wanted to know all about Smarty – how she was powered, where she was made, etc. One driver showed me his sunnies that he proudly said were made in the USA. He wanted me to try them, they were Oakley’s like mine, but his were probably better.
Smarty's Admirers
Our route took us eastwards along the coast through large banana plantations. Lots of roadside stalls were selling the fruit. 
Banana Plantation

We swapped the good dual carriageway coast road for a much poorer two-lane road that climbed its way into the hills. We stopped briefly to take photographs of a bridge very much like those we had seen in Zagori in Greece. We continued driving until the road ended at a large open-air restaurant shaded by trees. Alongside the restaurant the river flowed through a cascade of artificial pools in which people were bathing.
Bridge
It was lunchtime and we decided to eat in the restaurant. Most of the tables were empty but waiters were busy setting up long tables each of which carried a large name card, it looked as though they were expecting tour groups. We were shown to a small table alongside a pool. 

Restaurant

Pool Adjacent To Our Table

We both ordered schnitzels, chicken or Jane and beef for me. As we were eating a convoy of ten open top Land Rovers arrived. Each carried ten passengers who soon filled one of the long tables. The staff were clearly well practiced in serving such large numbers. Like a well oiled machine salads and bread were produced followed by a selection of mains accompanied by beer or a soft drink. In next to no time everyone had food which they tucked into while jabbering away in what sounded like Russian.

Jane and I Ieft the diners to it and made our way up the canyon on a boardwalk. Every now and again steps provided access to the river where people were bathing. The gorge became narrower and we passed a number of small waterfalls. 
Boardwalk



At the end of the walkway was a large pool fed by a high waterfall. There was a viewing platform looking over the pool and steps led down to rocks from which access to the pool could be gained. Jane decided it was time for a cooling dip, I decided it was time to watch her taking a cooling dip. She made her way down to a large rock from which she lost her balance and fell with style into the water. Her gasp could be heard for miles as could her views on how cold the water was. She got straight back out again complaining for the first time in months that she was cold! It felt like Lyall Bay in the middle of winter, she said. It was a while before she plucked up the courage to get back into the water and swim to the waterfall. 
Jane Hurriedly Gets Out Complaining How Cold The Water Is

Jane On Her Way To The Waterfall

At The Waterfall

Others began to arrive entering the water with similar exclamations of the cold as Jane. Then all of a sudden the viewing platform was packed by the Russians we had seen eating. The platform felt unsafe with so many people on it and i decided to get off and wait on the boardwalk for Jane. She had a real struggle getting back up as the Russians started to pour down the steps to the pool.
Russians Make For The Pool As Jane (centre) Struggles To Get Up
We walked back past the restaurant and sat on the edge of a pool with our feet in the water, it really was cold. Jane had another dip and then we decided it was time to head for home. We had to pause a while and wait for feeling to return to my numb feet before it felt safe to walk around the edge of the pool and back to Smarty.
Jane In Lower Pool
We stopped a short distance along the road on the edge of the village of Sapadere where we wanted to visit a small silk factory. Signs directed us to the ‘House of Silk and Silkworm’ and ‘Tea House’. There we were greeted by a man wearing a multi-coloured hooped polo shirt and traditional baggy Turkish trousers held up by a pink belt. On his head he wore one of those caps to be found in tourists shops - white with gold braid on the peak and a badge denoting the rank of captain. He showed us onto the verandah of the house. It wasn't a silk factory. We ordered two glasses of çay. Jane showed an interest in trousers hanging on a rack and bought two pairs after a bit of haggling which resulted in our tea being thrown in for nothing. The man wiped his face with the notes Jane handed over with a big smile on his face. He tried, but failed, to sell me peanuts he had grown himself describing them as natural Viagra. While we were talking a woman we assumed was his wife appeared with a baby.
Our Host At The House Of Silk And Silkworm Counts Jane's Money
On the way back to Mabel we stopped at a Mygros supermarket to buy Turkish Delight as a thank you to Koray for his help in finding accommodation for us in Istanbul. Later, Koray dropped by to let us know that his friend had sorted out accommodation for us in the old part of Istanbul and the hotel staff would take care of parking for Mabel and Smarty. We were disappointed to find that Koray was a diabetic and couldn’t eat Turkish Delight. Initially he was going to give it to the camping ground staff, but had a sudden change of heart and kept it.


As usual when we have eaten out during the day we had snacks instead of an evening meal.














































Day 148: Wednesday 13 August – A Quiet Birthday Celebration, by Ken

It was 6:00 when I woke on the camp stretcher outside Mabel after a good night’s sleep. Jane tells me that after I went to sleep last night a large feral dog that we had seen wandering around the camping ground climbed on my bed and went to sleep with its head on my pillow. Jane eventually shooed it away thinking it probably had fleas. Come to think of it I felt a bit itchy this morning.

I persuaded Jane that we should celebrate my birthday by having a quiet day in the camping ground and on the beach instead of doing a day trip in Smarty.

We had a leisurely start with a latish birthday breakfast cooked by Jane – bacon (which we found in the local Kipa supermarket yesterday), spicy Turkish sausage, mushrooms, tomato and scrambled egg (cooked by me). It made for a great start to the day.
Birthday Breakfast
The morning drifted by while I caught up with email and Jane Facebook. I started reading the Clayton’s blog recommended to us by Koray yesterday. The similarities are uncanny. They are Kiwis from Auckland who bought an Auto Trail motorhome free of VAT (and don’t seem to have the hassle we had in getting a registration number) and used it to tour Europe for a couple of years. Koray told us yesterday they had spent 6 months in Turkey and it dawned on me today that might be how to get round the rule that you have to export a vehicle within 12 months, otherwise you are liable for 20% VAT. So, we might just drift around Turkey for another 5 months, or maybe pop back to Morocco for a while.

The only problem with that plan is Jane was really struggling with the heat here in Turkey in spite of it being cooler today – low 30s.

Late morning we went down to the beach and lazed in the shade of an umbrella reading and dozing. We went for a bob in the sea where I discovered the bed is rock with lots of deep holes when I stepped into one. I also made an ungainly exit from the sea when I was bowled by a wave. I had to repeat the embarrassment for Jane after she fetched the camera.
How Not To Get Out Of The Sea

We weren’t hungry after our big breakfast and ate a very late light lunch under Mabel’s awning – cheese, salami, cucumber and a peach. After that Jane did some more planning for Bulgaria and Serbia concluding we could get through them in a day each to give us more time in Croatia. While she was doing that I emailed the New Zealand Transport Agency asking whether Smarty’s A-Frame and her ingenious braking system while being towed would be legal in New Zealand.

The temperature under the awning got too hot for Jane and she went back to the beach while I stayed with Mabel. I started reading about Istanbul in our guide book and felt there was so much to do there that we should stay more than four days.

Koray dropped by with bad news shortly after Jane returned . The camping ground in the heart of Istanbul used by the Claytons and the Antipodean trio we met in Oludeniz had closed. We talked about options for stops en route to Istanbul and then where we might stay there. The only camping ground is on the Black Sea about an hour out of Istanbul. We decided we would rather find a hotel in the city where we could park Mabel as that would have the big advantage for Jane of air conditioning meaning she would be cool at night. Koray had a friend who is a travel agent who had sought advice from Koray on places for 25 French campervans to stay while travelling through Turkey on a trip from Paris to Peking and back. Koray got on the phone to him and was expecting to have something for us tomorrow. How very kind.
Koray On The Phone Arranging Accommodation For Us
After G and T’s and showers we waited for the sun to go down and it got a bit cooler before visiting the camping ground restaurant for my birthday dinner. We had tzatziki and flat bread to start with chilies, bell peppers and the vegetable I didn’t recognise last night. If anything, the chillies were even hotter than yesterday! That was followed by steaks – mine with a pepper sauce, Jane had mushrooms. Both came with rice, fries and vegetables. 
Birthday Boy

We rounded off the meal with a tea and celebratory raki served with ice that tasted so much better than the tepid version we have been drinking in Mabel. That’s because Mabel’s fridge can only cope with one tray of ice per day in this heat and we use that for G and Ts. If I had known that I would have invested in the optional additional fan for the fridge designed to cope with temperatures greater than 32°.
Tea And Raki To Finish
















Day 147: Tuesday 12 August – Beldibi to Alanya, by Ken

Neither of us could face using the camping ground’s showers, both preferring to use the clean and very effective shower in Mabel. We were on the road shortly after 9:00, very pleased to be leaving the awful Orkinos camping ground behind.

Jane had lost her driving mojo after driving through Antalya three times yesterday. The unpredictability of Turkish drivers had got to her! I agreed to drive the first leg to get us through Antalya. In Antalya drivers were behaving much the same as yesterday, the use of indicators was a rarity, lane markings might as well not been there and the shoulder was obviously intended as an overtaking lane. One of the best performances we saw was by a driver in the middle lane veering to the left suddenly without any warning or indication into a filling station cutting across, and narrowly missing, a car in the slow lane. In Turkey it’s very much the following driver’s responsibility to take avoiding action when a driver in front does something silly. While Jane didn't have the stress of driving, she sat in the co-pilots seat gripping the armrests very tightly staring fixedly ahead. She reminded me of looking rather like someone strapped into an electric chair waiting for the switch to be thrown.
Why Use One Lane When You Can Use Two? (This driver drove a long way like this)
This is a frequent sight in Turkey. Men watering plants from a bowser. Most like this one had a line of cones tied together which the bowser pulls along as it moves. Usually, there was a man waving a red flag, or his arms, to deflect traffic. Why a poor country like Turkey spends money on plants and their maintenance is a mystery. There is also the safety implications for the workers and motorists of this work. But then safety doesn't seem to be important in Turkey

Turkey Is Good At Mosques

Our route took us inland for a while before returning to the Turkish Riviera coast about 60km from Alanya. Here there were hotels on both sides of the road crammed in cheek by jowl. Many of those on the landward side of the road had swimming pools and water slides while those on the seaward side had beaches. 
Hotels Stretched For Kilometres Along The Coast
Holiday Apartments

Just before we reach Alanya we passed a beach off which were moored a half dozen replica pirate ships. The reason for the ships wasn’t clear to us, while the area was used by pirates in the 2nd century BC, their ships would surely not have looked like those we passed - they wouldn’t have looked out of place on a Pirates of the Caribbean set.
Pirate Ships
We stopped to change drivers at about the halfway point. When we reach busy Alanya the driving is on a par with that in Antalya. Jane pulls over after just a few kilometres and hands back driving duties to me.

It was another extremely hot day. By 9:30 Mabel’s temperature gauge read 37° climbing to 40.5° by 11:00. That’s hotter than we experienced in the Sahara desert in 2012 where the dry heat was much more bearable than the high humidity of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. Not that the humidity was bothering us in the comfort of Mabel’s air-conditioned cab. 

Perle Camping, situated to the east of Alanya, was delightful. There was just one other motorhome there and that appeared unoccupied. We were given a grass pitch immediately at the back of the beach adjacent to the restaurant. Unfortunately there seemed to be something wrong with the camp’s wiring as Mabel’s panel showed reversed polarity whichever way I connected our plug. I gave up knowing that the solar panel would be more than good enough to keep the leisure battery topped up. A cooling sea breeze meant the temperature was in the high 30s. That, together with the high humidity, still felt too much for Jane.

After lunch of egg in a bowl we took a trip in Smarty into Alanya to visit the Kipa supermarket we had seen on our way through. While stopped at traffic lights a man with a young lad on a scooter asked if we would swap Smarty for his scooter. I agreed and got a laugh from the man. Jane thought it a dangerous thing to do as I might have been taken seriously.

While drinking our G and Ts under Mabel’s awning a man on his way back from the beach stopped to talk. He was Koray, a Turk with good English and owned the only other motorhome in the camping ground, although he wasn't living there at the time. He was a mine of information on camping grounds in Turkey and having found out we were Kiwis, he told us about Sue and Dave Clayton who had also stayed at Perle Camping. They were Kiwis, had bought a motorhome in the UK and shipped it back to New Zealand after doing a trip round Europe. Later we were joined briefly by Veronika. We found Sue and Dave’s blog and started reading it. The similarities were uncanny, they had also bought an Auto Trail Frontier, but not a Mohawk. We could see from its plates that, like us, they had purchased it under the UK’s personal export scheme. We wondered if they had the same hassles as us with DVLA in getting a registration number?

We ate dinner in the camping ground’s restaurant partly because it was far too hot to cook in Mabel with the inside temperature nudging 40°, but also because we wanted to check out whether it would be a good place for a birthday dinner tomorrow. 
Mabel As Seen From Our Table In The Restaurant

Jane Keeping Cool Waiting For Dinner To Arrive

The meal was the best we have had in Turkey, a large plate of meze was accompanied by flat breads, mine was cheese and mince, Jane had cheese. The food came with a green vegetable I didn’t recognize, chillis that were very hot and small bell peppers that weren’t quite as hot. We ordered a bottle of wine which was good and at 45 lira was very good value.
Dinner
The Sun Set As We Ate

Seen In The Restaurant

After dinner we strolled down to the beach and sat on the loungers for a while with glasses of raki. Then we settled down for the night on our camp stretchers under Mabel’s awning.

Today's Trip (178km)