Day 134: Wednesday 30 July – Kusadasi to Pamukkale, by Ken

Our tenth wedding anniversary today.

We decided not to wait for the Ptt to open in Kusadasi tomorrow, but to move on to Pamukkale where our guide book showed there to be a Ptt where we could get our toll road smart card. We set the satnavs (both seemed to be working fine) to give us a route that avoided toll roads.

Our Pitch At Kusadasi

Once clear of Kusadasi the drive of nearly 200km was easy and mainly on dual carriageways. Except for a number of busy towns we passed through the roads were quiet, probably because most traffic was on the toll road. We stopped in the small town of Söke where I jumped out to buy bread. Returning to Mabel two men were looking at Smarty’s towing arrangement and asked the usual question about how she steered. Just as I climbed back into Mabel I noticed we were parked outside a steam railway museum. I was tempted briefly, but decided to give it a miss.

Lots Of Memorials In Tukey

And Roadside Stalls Usually Selling Local Fruit or Vegetables

On one stretch of road we passed about a half dozen watering points comprised of hoses discharging water about three metres off the ground. Some of them had cars parked underneath. Were these poor men’s car washes or were they there to cool down cars? Elsewhere fruit stalls lined the road while other stalls were laden with jars of olives. In a town we saw a family of four on a motorbike. The father was driving, a young boy sat in front of him on the petrol tank while another child was wedged between the father and the mother seated at the back.

Four On A Motorbike

Stretched Limou

As we drove into Pamukkale the famous travertines we had come to see came into view. The brilliant white calcium deposits on the hillside were a marked contrast to the greens and browns of the surrounding countryside. As a bonus, our camping ground, Baydil Camping, was directly over the road from the travertines. Actually, it wasn’t much of a camping ground. The main business was a couple of swimming pools with water slides and a restaurant. The parking area for motorhomes was a rough grassed area on two sides of the pools and the showers and toilets were shared with pool users. The pool was noisy with loud music. Nevertheless, it had everything we needed and was very convenient for the sights we planned to visit in the area tomorrow.

After a lunch of Greek salad we had a quiet afternoon lounging under Mabel’s awning. The relative quiet of the camping ground was suddenly shattered by the call to worship from a mosque we couldn’t see, but judging by the volume had to be nearby. I didn’t know whether there was a ‘Turkey’s Got Talent’ and, if there was, whether a Muezzin would be allowed to compete. But if there was, and he could, then this man would win hands down. He put his heart and soul into it with his strident undulating call reverberating off nearby buildings. And his vocal range was so enormous we felt something would surely give as he reached for high notes, bit it didn’t. He was truly magnificent. Being broadcast by speaker we wondered whether he had a selection of pre-recorded calls and it was simply a question of him typing in the appropriate number to deliver his message?

One side of the camping ground was overlooked by restaurants perched on a terrace with views out to the travertines. We discussed which to go to for a meal to celebrate our 10^th wedding anniversary. One looked very Turkish with brightly coloured lanterns hanging over a deck. Others were plainer but all would have good views out to the travertines.

Early evening we decided to check out the restaurants. That with the lanterns had a man outside trying to drum up trade, he was joined by a woman who started screaming at us. It might have been her idea of a good sales pitch, it wasn’t mine. We resisted the pleadings of the man next door and moved on to the third. There an avuncular man handed us his card promoting ‘Mehmet’s Heaven’ which promised authentic food cooked by his wife as well as a great view. We opted to eat at Mehmet’s place. While we looked at the menu he told us how Pamukkale is over-run by Kiwis in April and May after Anzac day. He produced his visitor’s books for the last few years. They contained some impressive comments on the quality of the food and Mehmet’s hospitality. We found just one entry from Kiwis.

Are You Jane Perrott?

Mabel and Smarty As Seen From Our Restaurant Table

The shared starters of stuffed vineleaves and green beans were excellent but we were disappointed by our mains of kofte for me and doner kebab for Jane. We thought them average at best. As we ate the Muezzin made his final call of the day, it was just as passionate. We could see the mosque’s minaret not far from where Mabel was parked. At the end we heard the click of a microphone being turned off, it wasn’t a recording.

Travertines At Dusk

Back at Mabel we had another bottle of wine and some Raki and discussed plans for tomorrow. The Rough Guide recommended visiting the travertines at dawn when the lighting was at its best and there were few people about. We agreed on a dawn start (or so I thought) before turning in for the night. It was hot and we both decided to sleep outdoors.

Today's Trip (195km)