Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Day 44: Thursday 4 May - Grange Over Sands, Barrow in Furnace and Ulverston, by Ken

More cooked breakfasts at Ye Old Fighting Cocks.

The weather has deteriorated, it was wetter and colder than yesterday as we set off to see what Grange Over Sands had to offer. Not a lot, it turned out! We decided to take a walk along the Victorian promenade constructed in conjunction with the railway on the foreshore of Morecambe Bay in the 1850s. We learned that Grange was a popular resort with the Victorians and there were many bathing machines in use. The strange thing about Grange is that it doesn't have a beach, a salt marsh fronts the promenade, perhaps the bay has changed since Victorian days? Either way, the Victorians must have been a hardy lot, Morecambe Bay is not the most inviting of places. Dotted along the promenade were shelters typical of a lot of British seaside resorts that used to be occupied by visitors sheltering from the weather while waiting to be allowed back into their digs (seaside landladies were notorious for not allowing guests indoors during the day). No-one seemed to be locked out today.


Grange Over Sands



Grange Promenade (Note Lack Of Sea)




There were gardens by the side of the promenade, well looked after by volunteers. We met an 8 year old black Lab walking to heel with its lead in its mouth. We learnt the walker wasn’t its owner, she was just helping out. We have obviously gone badly wrong with Ziggy’s training, there is no way she would do that for anyone.

Promenade Gardens
It was cold even with our puffer jackets on. Then it started to rain and it went from cold to miserable. We decided to abandon the walk and headed to the town’s information centre for inspiration. That resulted in us setting a course for Barrow in Furness to visit the Dock Museum having learnt recently that Stephen’s Uncle Jeffery was the P&O rep with Vickers for the building of at least one of their Strathxxxx liners.  

I don’t imagine Barrow looks attractive on the best of days, but it was bleak when we arrived in the cold overcast. We visited the museum after eating rolls bought at a local bakery in the museum’s car park. The museum structure was interesting, it has been constructed in a dry dock and the two floors above the base of the dock hang from the roof structure. The museum concentrated on the social history of Barrow which Jane really enjoyed, I found it interesting, but had hoped to learn more about the ships built in Barrow. I did discover, however, that following the discovery of large deposits of high quality iron ore in the area enterprising entrepreneurs established ship building  utilising steel produced from the iron. It seems that Barrow’s ship building days are largely over with nuclear submarines constructed under cover in an enormous building being all that is left.

We picked up a map at the museum that showed beaches on the Isle of Walney, a long narrow strip of land that forms one side of Barrow’s docks and harbours. We drove over to take a look, it wasn’t a pretty sight on a cold grey afternoon and I doubt that it would be a lot better in the middle of summer. The barren foreshore gave way to a steep beach of boulders and the grey Irish Sea. The view out to sea wasn’t exciting either with a skyline filled with wind turbines.
Walney Beach

Wind Farm Off Walney Beach


We drove to the southern end of the island from where across the inlet we could see the lifeboat station on Roa Island with Piel Castle on Piel Island offshore from Roa Island. We descided to drive around the harbour to take a closer look at the two islands. On the way we passed depressing housing on the outskirts of Barrow in what I think is called Vickers Town.
Piel Island From Walney Island




Vickers Town With Covered Shipyard In Background

Roa Island turned out to be a peninsular with a dry causeway linking it to the mainland. Just offshore and accessible by ferries (which didn’t appear to be operating) was Piel Island. The island was presented to the people of Barrow in 1920 by the Duke of Buccleuch as a memorial to those who died in World War I. A sign invited us to visit the Ship Inn on the Island and meet the King and Queen who apparently own the pub. We didn’t take up the invitation.




Piel Island From Roa Island
Derelict Trawler By Causeway To Roa Island
We then took the coast road to Ulverston where we wanted to visit the Laurel and Hardy Museum (Stan Laurel was born in the town in 1890). There was a “Closed” sign on the door which listed the opening hours indicating it should have been open.


Jane, Hardie and Laurel

Stan Laurel


Back at Arnside we ate at Ye Old Fighting Cocks. Jane was happy with her fish and chips, my steak and kidney pie was overcooked. Definitely time to move on.










No comments:

Post a Comment