Saturday, June 28, 2014

Day 76: Monday 2 June - Buongiorno Italy, by Ken

It was 3° when Jane set off first thing to do some more planning for the trip. The only place in the camping ground with wi-fi is a chalet with no windows or door, so she was well wrapped up in her puffer jacket. Even so, she was very cold when I joined her half an hour later to check my email. Jane had already checked hers and Harry had sent a link of a video he had made of Ziggy. It’s excellent and can be seen at:


It was so good to see Ziggy obviously happy and looking very good.

Coincidentally, Harry ‘phoned soon after we got back to Mabel. He was having problems with the internet connection at home. It was a good opportunity for Jane and I to catch up with him. We thanked him for the video which we really appreciated, it took him less than an hour to put together. All is good in Wellington except Harry isn’t feeling 100% and is going to see Chan. Also, Jenny has picked up a virus to add to her woes of a broken arm.

It was time to farewell the French Alps and move on to Italy. We packed up Mabel, de-cheesed, dumped our grey waste and filled with fresh water, hooked up Smarty and were on the road just after 09:00. We stopped on the outskirts of Chamonix so Jane could walk into town to a pharmacy to buy pills to prevent sea sickness. She was worried about the crossing from Naples to Sicily on Wednesday night. I stayed with Mabel, while I was waiting a Frenchwoman came by with two dogs. She was impressed by Smarty hooked on the back of Mabel, so much so she took a photograph.

Jane returned 30 minutes later with her pills. She now has the wrist bands and homeopathic pills purchased on the channel ferry and the pills purchased today. Hopefully, one or other of those will work, but to be on the safe side, we have booked an external cabin for the night crossing and there should be a porthole available.

As Jane drove out of Chamonix we caught our last glimpse of the snow covered alps set against a backdrop of a cloudless blue sky – absolutely magnificent. The road out of Chamonix to the Mont Blanc tunnel climbs through a series of hairpin bends and it didn’t take long to reach the toll booth at the tunnel entrance. A very friendly woman in the booth asked us to wait while she consulted a colleague. I asked whether that was because of Smarty on the back, it was. Two colleagues arrived after a while and the verdict was we couldn’t tow Smarty through the tunnel. I couldn’t see the difference between Smarty and a caravan or trailer, but I guess it was easier for them to say no and maybe they thought the combination didn’t meet the requirement of vehicles being 150 metres apart in the tunnel. There seemed little point in arguing so we unhitched Smarty at the booth and Jane climbed in. Back in Mabel the woman in the booth was engrossed in something she was watching on television and it was a few moments before she realised I was back. I paid for both vehicles - €56.10 for Mabel and €42.40 for Smarty (the toll for a car towing a caravan would have been €56.10). That’s a hell of a lot of money to travel through a 11.6 km tunnel. I was handed a safety card covering aspects such as what to do in an emergency (39 people died when a Belgian truck caught fire in the tunnel in 1999 - we passed a memorial on the approach to the tunnel), maximum and minimum speed limits and the requirement to keep 150 metres from a vehicle in front. I set off, the headlights of the vehicle some way behind me obviously weren’t Smarty’s – Jane was held at the toll booth for a while before being allowed to proceed. There was very little traffic in the tunnel, blue lights on the wall denoted the safe travelling distance of 150 metres, that wasn’t a problem as the tail lights of the vehicle ahead were a long way off. There was little traffic coming the other way, two trucks were being escorted through by vans front and rear.
No delays in the Tunnel
A Quiet Mont Blanc Tunnel

On the Italian side of the border I pulled up in a lorry park to wait for Jane who arrived a few minutes later. We hitched up Smarty and set off again, There were no border controls and we were soon descending through the alps via at least half a dozen tunnels up to 6 km long through mountains and over viaducts spanning deep valleys. The autostrada took us eastwards across the industrialised flat plains of northern Italy to the outskirts of Milan. We stopped to refuel Mabel at a stazione sevizio near Ivrea. The Eftpos machine accepted a PIN number – in the UK and France we had to sign for all the transactions. The scenery was boring compared to the majesty of the alps although I was impressed by a newish high speed railway that ran close to the autostrada for a long while. I believe the line would be the link between Turin and Milan and every now and again maroon or red and silver trains would zip past us.

Mabel and Smarty Reunited In Italy - South Portal of Tunnel in Background
Lots of Viaducts and Tunnels
Billy Connolly who had a bad day yesterday losing GPS signals and us as well as freezing the map was behaving much better today. Perversely, the map kept moving through tunnels when there couldn’t possibly be a GPS signal!
Hilltop Monastry
Skirting round the south side of Milan we stopped for lunch at a service area. We ate half the baguette purchased at the camping ground with our usual selection of dips and cheeses. We also finished the last of the pork pie bought in Dover as a reminder of the UK. While parked a couple of people looked over Smarty’s towing arrangements. When I got out to check Smarty over a Swiss guy parked next to us came over to ask how it all worked. She certainly attracts a lot of attention and the usual question is how does Smarty steer. Unusually, she doesn’t have a steering lock so that isn’t a problem.
Lunchtime
It was my turn to drive the remaining 230 km, or so, to Bologna. We headed south east, still on the industrialised plains and again with a newish railway line alongside the road, this time the link between Milan and the south. The sky was hazy but the temperature climbed steadily peaking at 28°.
Railway Station South of Milan
The toll booth at the final biglietto caused Jane some grief, refusing to accept the notes she was trying to insert to pay the €30 toll. It also wouldn’t accept a credit card. Male and female voices were giving instructions, We had been practicing our Italian from our phrase book as we drove, Jane said she didn’t understand, in English. I climbed out and walked round to the machine and managed to insert a €50 note. The barrier rose and I got a friendly arrivederci from the machine. Was that a recording, or was it the woman that was trying to help earlier?
Toll Pay Station - Top slots too high for Mabel, bottom too low)
Reaching the complex of autostrada around Bologna, Billy Connolly reverted to type and froze the map. That made it particularly difficult to negotiate interchanges where we have come to rely on the large scale diagrams displayed on the satnav to find the correct path through. While it was fraught at times we got to our camping ground – the Citta de Bologna Camping Ground on the outskirts of Bologna at 16:30. The man on reception said there was room for us, but warned there was a pop concert in the evening at a nearby park, the concert finished at midnight. We opted to stay.

The camping ground was very good, lots of pitches shaded by trees with a strong fragrance of flowers. We found a good position, it was very warm so we set up the awning, table and chairs. Jane went for a swim while I cooked a cowboy casserole for our dinner. Then we walked to the bar and sat in the sun with a Negroni each to celebrate our arrival in Italy. Jane’s leg muscles were still tight after Saturday’s walk and her gait was a passable impression of Douglas Bader. Afterwards we sat outside and ate dinner, it was so good and relaxing to be able to eat out in the fresh air.

We had paid very nearly €200 in tolls for the day's travels. Tomorrow’s trip is shorter, so we programmed satnav to avoid autostrada and save us some money.


We could hear the pop concert, it wasn’t particularly loud and we had no trouble sleeping, we were tired after a long day’s driving.
Set Up For The Night in Bologna


Today's Trip (473km)







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